Christmas Meet - Snowdonia 4th-6th December 2015

          Christmas meet, the infamous Christmas meet! Where to begin? Excitement had been building all week at 24 Craighill, as the food order arrived and Toby’s free-range turkeys were collected. On Friday the kitchen was a hive of Christmas activities and delicious aromas. Callum was busy cooking a turkey joint, Katie was making the veggie dinners and mince pies, while Marie oversaw the production of copious amount of cinnamon biscuits (I helped her by eating plenty of the left-over dough, so she didn't have to make as many). Then, even more excitement, the new fleeces arrived! They are really pretty awesome, with different colours and ULMC on the front and the Station's logo on the back to recognise their sponsorship.

At the same time, concern was also building over the ominous weather forecast, and we all mentally upped our alcohol budget for the weekend. Another, perhaps more major, concern was the lack of bus by Friday morning, the union having had some key issues. Not being able to find it being the main one. The union then had more issues when the recovered key was not fully functioning, and they wanted to move the bus. After much palaver we were given a larger bus at a lower cost, which despite it being a rattling and a generally pretty shoddy offering, was still a win. Everyone piled in, and we were off! Adam driving one bus and Jim, having a made Christmas meet reappearance, driving the other; while Katie, Marie and Remy enjoyed the gear van.

 

Lovely looking weather!

Despite the gale-force winds, it was an uneventful journey. Marie even decided to kindly not pull the door off this year and we arrived at Coetmor Mill hut in good time. Peate, Jack Knight and Joel soon arrived to join in the fun too - all the old boys (and defectors) were returning for Christmas! Obviously ULMC is better than Liverpool – isn’t it Joel! Amy and Steve were also there, and it was really nice to see so many familiar faces from previous years.

Drinking soon commenced, and carried on late- save yourselves people, tomorrow is the big one! Psyched for the climbing I knew wouldn’t happen tomorrow, I started a game of add-one with Jack Knight, Steve and Chris, which developed into a full-on epicley long route which traversed the roof beams back on itself twice before looping back to the start holds. It was well gnarly. V13 at least. Or given the length, probably more more like 9a.  We got Toby to make us a ‘wad video’ which, hilarious at the time, will no doubt will resurface soon and we’ll have to bring ourselves to watch…

After a few short hours of sleep it was time to get up and face the downpour that was the world outside the hut. Bundled up in all of the raingear they could muster, and nobly intending a bracing walk, Jim, Sam and Peate, took everyone off to Ogwen Valley. Jack Knight, being a pansy man, decided to head to an indoor wall with other pansy men like Howie and Chris R who were all of a sudden psyched for climbing ;)

Here is Jim’s account of the walk:

Needless to say people were pretty reluctant to get up on the Saturday morning due to a combination of tiredness and the fact that it was raining sideways. However , we got going eventually and we all piled into my bus and Peate's car, planning to go for a walk in the morning and mince in the afternoon. After pushing my bus out of the mud, we set off along the Ogwen valley, where I started having doubts over my plans to go up to Lliwedd from Pen-y-Pass. The gale force winds and heavy rain didn't make the idea of a walk particularly appealing, so after a brief consultation with Peate we decided to do a shorter walk instead, up to Idwal Slabs. Because I am a cheapskate I refused to park at Ogwen Cottage and instead used a free layby, meaning that everyone got totally soaked before we'd even left the road- sorry about that! It was fair to say psych was not high. Much moaning took place as we pushed through the maelstrom, with only the old members seeming to have something approaching a good time.

We had nearly reached llyn idwal when we decided enough was enough and bailed back to our (thankfully still upright) bus. Much mincing followed, with Petes Eats first on the list. Chips and hummus were discovered to great delight while myself and Josh mineswept everyone else's leftovers until we felt a bit sick. After out staying our welcome here, some decamped to V12, where Paddy spent another few hundred quid on outdoor clothing, before heading to the pub in Capel Curig. This seemed to go down pretty well for a few hours, probably due to the roaring fire, before we emerged back into the pissing rain and wobbled back to the hut for a well earned shower and dinner. No climbing, but we had a go at doing something productive at least!

Committee however were delighted to spend a morning indoors cooking the christmas dinner for everyone else. Just to let you all know, we had a fantastic time. Remy made us all a big pot of mulled wine to start the day. Then after I bagged the first ascent of last night’s add-one route, ‘Just one more move wonder,’ Remy and Callum set up a roped assault course in the bedroom, while downstairs Charlie, Katie and Connor soon gave up trying to do Uni work under the effects of mulled wine. Then we decorated biscuits, Charlie and Marie going for the high-class perfect finish, while I went for the ‘feed the masses’ approach, cranking out three times as many they did, with three times as little aesthetic beauty.  Apparently that’s ‘not how you decorate biscuits.’

Then Remy taught me and Callum how to dry-tool and figure four hang which was great fun!

The moment when a committee core workout session degenerated into this...

Anyway, you’re probably wondering when the cooking happened. Well it started off with an oven that took Katie and I more than half an hour to figure out how to light, until Katie thankfully cracked it!  Then Charlie figured out the timings while the rest got going chopping the veg - apart from Remy who was busy stopping the second Great Flood in the basement and rescuing all our gear in what was very much the nick of time! 

This could have been part of the problem...

On the whole, things were going smoothly - we’d only forgotten knives, tea-towels and oven gloves - until we realised that the oven was significantly shitter than anticipated and the potatoes were never going to cook in time to free up the oven for the rest of the veg and the meat. This was around 2pm - there was no way in hell. We got inventive in our dire need. The parsnips and carrots were boiled and then fried by Connor’s expert hand. The oven was fully stacked and the microwave may or may not have been pressed into action. James McDonalds impeccable timing and cooking ability was sorely missed it is fair to say, and a slightly frazzled committee greeted the soggy group that traipsed in at around 4pm. However we made it, just, and dinner was served in a room festively decorated with gear and sweets – even the odd ice axe and dead-man anchor adorned the walls. If the odd potato was slightly underdone I hope you’ll forgive us! 

Committee table!

After the festivities of the meal, Frosty arrived, the signal that drinking should begin in earnest! It certainly did, and I name no names, but we all learnt more about each-other, some of us even got christened anew, and others us even managed to get themselves punched in the face. Amy, Charlie Marie and I strengthened our friendship some more (if that was necessary), Frosty got psyched for Marxism and Toby alternated filming with being the spectacle being filmed! I don’t think anything truly horrendous happened this year, but everyone had a good time which is the main thing! 

Chis and his harem

Happy faces and lots of boulder pad chilling. 

And so the night progressed..

"Bomber mate!"

The next day, far too early, the alarm went off and we dragged our hung-over  selves reluctantly out of bed, and as the sky lightened, we gazed morosely at the continued rain. Was it ever going to stop?

Pete’s Eats was really the only viable option at that point so we went to enjoy the quality breakfast fare served there. Pete’s is a brilliant café! It has saved many a hung-over soul. Their hummus and chips can be highly recommended too! We also revived the ‘Ego Book,’ after finding a collection of old volumes detailing club escapades from the 90’s! We’re calling it the ULMC Logbook and it will hopefully bring much entertainment to us and to future club members!

When the rain abated we packed off to the slate quarries to quench the ever growing, and thus far unsatisfied hunger for dry rock!

 

Hmmm.. will it be dry?

Callum, Connor and Remy went to the Sidings in Australia. Here is Callum’s account:

 ‘With help from the ‘cool bus’ Adam got us to the slate in a somewhat safer state than on the way to the hut on Friday. Greeting us at the familiar Sidings, was the entire Sheffield Uni mountaineering club. Between the Sheffield top ropes and the newly formed waterfalls we picked out the 3 remaining routes which were by no means dry - much to Remy's pleasure! 

Lots of action on the Sidings!

After teaching Maddy and Sophie the tricks to de-threading, Ben quickly got on his first lead of the day, he's unsure of its name but said it may as well be called 'shitty arete' (a 4). 

Connor abstained from the action at first, asking for a 'short 45 minutes before thinking about climbing - the effects of Christmas meet!

 Emma led Adam and Ross on another f4 with Adam noting that it was 'too easy to top rope'.

Eying up the lower off!

 Paddy put to rest 'the punter' and claimed 'Orangatang Overhang' (6a+), and was often seen bullying John into following him up anything with bolts in.

After a 5+ Remy decided to return to his nemesis which he decked out on a year ago, followed Sheffields’ chalky hand prints (they'd "literally covered the whole arete" he says) up to the 3rd clip before proceeding to fall off 3 times. He put this down to it not being in condition, claiming he needed nevé ice to really bag this one.  

The Quarry always looks awesome!

The rest of the day continued with everyone ticking each other's climbs, including Sophie's and Kyle's first sport leads which were also both a little wet so top efforts! 

Sophie pulling cool shapes!

Adam too

 

While, Maddy keeps her cool!

At around 3, knowing we only had an hour till we needed to leave, Remy and I decided that if we ran then we could just about get him up Plastic Soldiers (6a) - and run we did. After the warm up jog Remy dispatched the route and after seeing the time I knew we wouldn't have time to second it. Whilst Remy set up and abbed off the top out bolt/spike to retrieve the gear I sprinted up the many scree slopes to the top of the route to dismantle said abseil whilst Remy sorted the ropes, off again we continued our hour long sprint, arriving back to the group and hitting the road at 4.30 dead as planned! A great day considering storm Desmond the previous day'

‘Team Girls’, and Toby meanwhile enjoyed the delightful nearly flat walk-in up to Plateau Slabs where we were greeted by only slightly damp slate. It was enough and people got on it ASAP, while Jim and Frost went off in search of harder stuff. Charlie and I began by teaching, newcomer Chris W to lead belay, and got some general ticking done with him. 

Busy at the crag!

William, having learnt to lead last meet, was on it, dispatching route after route. Tom climbed with him and after a nap in the bus seemed to have recovered his faculties following a heavy night. They both led Colin’s arête, 4c, then Will took on Margic Carpet 5a and Carpe Diam, 5c, time for some 6a’s next! 

Howie and Chris were unexpectedly fully psyched for ropes. Howie and Jack worked Monster Munch, 6c+, Howie stating that ‘I must be ill’ when we questioned his newfound psyche! Chris, meanwhile, was  psyched for seconding so got me to climb the 6b at the end of the slab.  I, not feeling hung-over at all until this point, was precipitated into a pretty bad state of queasiness after a length slide off the crux- thanks Chris. 

Sam and Anthony - what a great photo!

There was plenty compulsory Christmas-meet mincing going on too, Toby went for a wander up to the top of the Tower, and Marie went for a wander…back down to the bus to get her harness. Jim and Frost ended up going for a rather longer wander without once finding anything dry worth trying in for!

Marie's wander.

Katie however, got on the 6b, and despite falling, led it all the way to the top, which was awesome! Anthony then did the same, clearly they’d had far too much sleep last night! Marie after retrieving her harness, completed a clean 6a onsight of Slate Ninja. First 6a, brilliant effort! 

 

Marie on a earlier route, looking serious.

After some teaching, I belayed Steve who was top-roping his nemesis 6c+, Monster Munch, which had spat him off last year. I had a top-rope too, and in the last hour, Howie, Jack, Steve and I all had a redpoint. Howie came really close, ‘2mm close,’ explaining foot was just that tiny bit too low; unfortunately there wasn’t time for another go or he’d have got it for sure. 

Psyched for ropes!

Jack and Steve got it next, Jack having no problems and Steve cruising up it in his new Tenaya edges! Nice one! Then it was my go. Cruising is perhaps not the best way to describe my ascent; I kept having to stop every few moves to calm my stomach and hold on tight, trying really hard not to vomit! Things got pretty close it’s fair to say. Definitely need a new UKC category for ‘hardest hung-over lead.’

I love this photo! Brilliant move from Marie, Jack about to go for the finishing jug and Chris on a rope!

Just as we were starting to think of leaving a car drove up and onto the level we were on, and we were evicted by a guy from the Hydro Station, and told not to return. This was a reminder of the access issues that actually surround the slate quarries. While, climbers have and will continue to climb there, it is only by implicit agreement betweent the BMC and the Hydro Electric company who own the land. While most of the time climbers are lucky, occasionally we can get kicked out. The only thing to do then is what we did, apologise and leave as quick as possible, promising not to return there.

Toby just visible at the top of the Plateau Slabs tower

However we had had a good day, better than anyuone could have hoped, judging by the rain in the morning at least! So we said goodbye to lovely Snowdonia for the year and headed back to meet the others and share stories at Telford. Although not as much climbing got done as we’d have liked, Christmas meet was once again a success. Thanks for an awesome first term of meets everyone who’s been there, come again next term and we’ll have our fingers crossed for more luck with the weather!

                     Thanks to Kyle, Joel, Howie, Emma, Charlie, Sam and Marie for photos :)

Snowdonia 20th-22nd November 20015

As I begin this weeks blog, I’m left feeling that words are somehow inadequate and wondering how I can do justice to the array of amazing photos this weekend?

Pictures speak a thousand words they say? Perhaps this week I'll let the pictures lead a little more and see where that takes me.

This meet to Snowdonia was short a Captain, a Gear Sec and a Training sec, and was instead lead by a girl-strong committee, of myself, Charlie, Marie Katie, with Toby as the token male (Jokes! - he was an invaluable acting-gear sec!) With Katie driving, we had three girls up front for the first time in club history in anyone's memory. It could well have been a real first in fact! It was excellent :) We only got a little lost occasionally and generally had a great time!

 Saturday morning at 8am Wales greeted us with this incredible view as we drove from Capel Curig towards Llanberis pass. Excitement was high as we drove higher and into the snowline. We looked up at the crags of this iconic valley, trying to spot lines, and surveying the exent of the black streaks of seepage that the Winter inevitably brings; were headed for the Dinorwig slate quarries.

  

The day began at then Sidings level up at Australia; slowly as it was more than a bit nippy. As the sun came out and the burns of hot aches receded, we were offered some amazing views and people started to emerge from the comfort of down jackets to got some climbing done. 

 Will, our newest outdoor member, not giving his identity away! - Looking pretty toasty.

 

 Charlie got things going, leading Railway Children, 6a/+, which having failed to second two years ago, she was pretty psyched to lead so easily. This was followed by In Loving Memory, 6b, which being not only delicate, but also a reach-y climb; 'little Charlie' was perhaps even more delighted to lead!

Here she is, trying hard!

 

Katie, climbing with Emma and Will led The Polar Express, 5c and above is seconding a route of the extravagant name: 'Those who climb clearly marked projects are the kind of people who would steal the chocolate bar from a kid's lunch box - selfish tossers - who owe the bolt fund cash.'

 Marie, after leading The Polar Express too, climbed up with Josh to enjoy the sunshine from a higher vantage point in search of a good photo angle.

 

Mo, looks pretty happy here - with good reason too, he had a really good day with Paddy, between them on a mission to tick the crag!  He also did his first outdoor lead of a 5 which he cannot remember the name of..!

What about Paddy? Or Paddy the Punter as he is now known by as some. I must certainly leave some pace for his exploits. Various incidences of not bringing up enough draws for a sport route, and an exhibition on Orangutang Overhang, 6a+ earned him the name Paddy the Punter. Which only became more firmly cemented in our minds, by his evening antics involving an impromptu naked hut run and much more. 'Paddy the Punter strikes again' was the not-infrequent call!

The Orangutang Overhang incident needs elaboration. By around 2pm the weather window had closed down and dark clouds were rolling in. Snow started falling. A great time to begin another climb thought Paddy. Toby trying valiantly to dissuade him was promptly given a £100 deposit at the crag in order to allow Paddy to use Toby's draws and give the route a go anyway.

At the second, fairly spaced bolt, Paddy realising he was in deck-out zone on what was becoming progressively wetter and wetter rock, decided to rethink his boundless enthusiasm: 'Can I drop off here?' The answer being a definite no, he had to sketchily down-climb until a jump off resulted in a pendulum swinging low, a foot off the ground!

 

Looking through the tunnel to the Looning the Tube area.

Chris and I meanwhile trekked up far too many levels with Sam and Anthony in search of The Skyline level.

 

You can just see Anthony in the distance, high up on Clash of the Titans, 6a, which he led with Sam. 

He then led Harri Bach Lllannig, another 6a, which Sam led afterwards. These two both need to start getting on harder some sport routes! 

Chris and I ended up two levels higher than intended. Fed-up of shingle scrambling, Chris  persuaded me to get on an unknown sport route rather than go down again to the route I had planned. 'How hard can it be..? Where is your sense of adventure?!' Yes indeed, here we were in the beautiful slate quarries in the snow with a route waiting to be climbed: best get on it! Next thing we discovered was that foolishly neither of us had a belay plate... 'Well this makes it even more exciting' I thought as I got started, expertly Italian-hitch lead belayed by Chris.

Deciding trad using the same belay method might be a little too adventurous, we borrowed Sam's belay plate for me to lead Digital Delectation, a lovely HVS 5a crack. Lovely, with a large loose block in it near the top for added fun.

Digital Delectation HVS 5a

Next up was Rastaman Vibration, E2 6a, which I spotted as we descended a level. The bit that looked hard had a couple of bolts so I thought it was worth a try. The E2 bit went to plan, and after having underestimated the size of the top crack and pulling some larger gear up on the free rope, I finished it and started belaying Chris. After standing on the bolt (!) Chris, about to mantle up, almost pulled the entirety of the top section off -  which was only slightly unnerving as all of my gear past the bolts were held in place by that rock! 

 We then descended to the Sidings to join the others for lunch and to watch Jack leading The Level Crossing, a long traverse of the Sidings which looked like a hilarious route!

We arrived just in time for the first flakes of snow to start settling. Much to Emma and Adam's annoyance, who after a good morning of seconding had wanted to get on their first leads.

These two however were 'psyched for SNOW!!'

The few flakes rapidly increased. We all, apart from Paddy and poor Toby, headed down to the tunnel by Looning to peer out at the weather...

..which steadily got worse!

Change of plan. Once we'd pursuaded Paddy down from Orangutang, Katie and Marie took half the group to go and warm up and sample the delights of Pete's Eats. Charlie and I meanwhile were psyched for some more adventure and for showing everyone just how cool the slate quarries were! Time for Snakes and Ladders and Tunnels! Sam who had also done it before joined us, and we took Paddy, Will, Mo and Toby accompanied, videoing along the way.

Sam ascending the first of the questionabel ladders

It was so much fun in the snow! Leaving the roped ascent of the chain and the abseils out due to time contsraints, we still had an awesome time exploring the bowels of the slate quarries in the gently falling snow. Through tunnels, up rusting old ladders, and over tottering piles of shingle! Helmets and head-torches were a must!

Paddy 'living and loving the life!'

My tongue-protruding concentration face on a particularly rickety ladder!

Psyched for adventure!!

At the top of all the ladders we explored the old miners huts, and found that plastic sheeting and a wood-burning stove had been put in the largest hut. Sound like a good future trip base anyone?

Here we are, stalwart adventurers at the summit!

After a pleasant wander down some steps back to Looning level, we drove back to peruse the gear shops of Llanberis before heading back to the hut for food, drink to start the evening's entertainment. 

Marie's evening consisted of inhaling Charlie aroma..

 

Ring of fire was hilarious as ever, and Will was well and truly initiated into club lore and tradition by undergoing a naked hut run on his first meet! 'Is this what they are usually like?' he later questioned. More of less, yes is the answer... I hope he comes back and we've not scared him off for life!!

Next morning, a consultation of the weather forecast revealed that Tremadog and the Pass were out and Castle Inn sport venue was probably our best bet.

Arriving at 11am to find 90% wet rock we bailed to Old Colwyn to sample the one and only cafe that it boasted. A beach walk was lovely and windy, and Emma and I, walking some way behind the others, found some incredible sea life! 

 A few hours later, back at Castle Inn we found enough dry rock to get going. Sam got things started, leading Comeback Kid, a 4c arete. (Everything is downgraded on UKC compared to the book and the grades I told you all!) 

Here he is looking awesome in orange on As You Like It, 6b+ which being wet, Sam did not like, and bailed halfway up! He and Anthony then went on to literally tick the crag over at the Lil Marlene area.
Check out Anthony's 'top-rope-hero' antics..

And other slightly more questionable antics..? 

Shenanigans aside, Anthony, got on Indian Summer 6a/+, onsighting it putting the draws in which he was justifiably very pleased with! 

Meanwhile I belayed Will on his first ever lead, of Easy Peasy, 3. This dispatched with ease, he went off with Toby to between them have a remarkably prolific day! One Fine Day 3 (not 4 apparently), Finale 5a and Comeback Kid 4c. Great effort on his first trip outdoors and as the least experienced member on the trip! Toby, with a sore ankle, lead most of these routes too, and between them, it looked like they had a great time! 

Paddy here on Finale, 4, climbed with Mo and got lots done in the afternoon. Most notably he and Mo both had a go at leading Indian Summer, Mo getting it onsight and Paddy coming close! Mo, having only done his first lead on Saturday, was pretty pleased to have fought the 'Elvis leg' to a first clean onsight of a 6a+!

Katie and Marie had a good afternoon too, ticking all three routes on Opera Wall, and Katie leading Ice Cream and Candyfloss, 5c too.

Chris made the most of all of the warmth he could find, taking it easy on boulder pads, smothered in sleeping bags and emergency bags! 

He did eventually decide to do some climbing, but as soon as he'd got me to belay him and was warming up doing star jumps he twisted his ankle! Badly enough to preclude any more climbing unfortunately! So we rested, iced, compressed and elevated his foot and sat him in Jack's car boot with pillows and painkillers! 

Once Chris was comfortably ensconced, and everyone else seemed happy, I decided to have a go at Route 3, 6c. Upon getting stuck not being able to reach a bolt, Jack kindly swung out after doing Route 2, 6a, to put int the crucial draws in for me! That made all the difference and I was able to just about teeter and delicately edge my precarious way to an onsight which I was pretty psyched to get! 

Next Charlie made it halfway though The Cakewalk, 6b+ before deciding that finger injury wasn't worth it and bailing, it was great to see her trying hard on it though and she'll be back for it!

In fact, it was great see everyone trying so hard this meet. There were first leads from Emma and Adam, on Easy Peasy, 3,  followed this with leads of One Fine Day, 3, and TRF, 4a (again, downgraded from 4 and 5 on ukc!). It's really very inspiring seeing people pushing their comfort zones and trying hard, regardless of the grade. Whether that's a first lead, a new grade, or simply coming climbing!

Marie leading on Opera Wall, and Will and Toby getting ready for the nect route.

Considering the weather, and that on Saturday in Wales we'd had one of 2 day days in the last fortnight(!) I think we got pretty to lucky to do any climbing at all! I for one really enjoyed this weekend, and am very psyched for more Snowdonia next meet. 

If you're thinking of coming on one meet, come on Christmas meet, it's awesome!

 Anthony says: 'See you all at Christmas meet for some REAL fun..!'

Big thanks to Charlie, Marie and Sams for some amazing photos! :)