Lake District
With a new hut, and plenty of new faces, there was a general
excitement about the weekend. In spite of this, faced with high chances of rain
and all round moisture, plus a monster drive, psyche was somewhat low in
comparison to previous weekends. With
this huge journey in mind, people’s punctuality was stressed heavily as the bus
needed to leave at 18:00 on the dot. However, as if we had jinxed ourselves, we
arrived at 17:45 with no bus in sight. After collecting the keys earlier in the
day Josh had phoned me questioning where the bus was, but I informed him to
chill out, and what an idiot I felt turning up to no bus. After 15 minutes
running around campus we intercepted the van by the entrance and hopped in to
find an unpunctual, yet friendly member of ‘Hungry 4 Change’ driving it. After
a brief grilling, Jim, Harry and I placed all the blame on Ellie Fuller, our
gear sec, for her role in the ‘Hungry 4 Change’ society. By 18:05 we were all
packed bar one, Caitlin, who very nearly missed the boat. However just as we
were about to set off she was seen power walking in the distance. As usual, the
journey was largely painless, even for the drivers as Harry and Jim shared the
load. On arriving in Coniston we turned down the road towards the hut. This
road seemed to become progressively narrower, bumpier, and couples with a large
drop on the left hand side, scarier. Having vaguely listened to Katie giving me
directions on the phone I decided, with some uncertainty, to park the van with
a group of cars. We then marched off up the hill in the direction of a group of
houses, one of which was hopefully the Coppermines Hut, yet I need not have
worried as it was quickly located.
We woke up early the following morning to promising weather,
and an impressive view of the valley we drove up the night before. We were
quickly out that morning with plans to spend the day at Shepard’s crag. On
arriving the clouds were grey and it was so windy and Jim’s paranoia about
damaging hired buses led him to face the bus into the wind, for fear of it
blowing over. With the parking being on the land of a B&B and café (which
was closed) we attempted to find the owners by banging on various windows and
doors to no avail. After deciding to risk, I bumped into a young boy of about
10 who politely informed me that we could indeed park there, not wanting to
risk disappointment being told the opposite from a grumpy parent, I decided we
should get cracking up the hill to the crag.
On arrival one group set off to Browns Slab to get a good
introduction to trad climbing on the grimey and slippery lower slab, and the
exposed and blustery upper slab. Whilst I was not there to observe any goings
on as I was off having fun, Marie had somewhat of an epic which involved her
querying how to sling a tree, she finally learnt and topped out the route.
Another two potential (and adversary) future committee members logged there first
few lead climbs on the slab without fear and even learnt, despite my poor
teaching, by the end of the day to do their top set up. Despite the
understandable intimidation that many experience when they first climb
outdoors, Thiviyan proudly seconded some good roots up the slab.
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| Kransic Crack |
During this time Ellie led Chamonix (HS), and Remy and I set
off up ‘Little Chamonix’ (Vdiff) in our boots. This is a classic little route
with a surprising amount of exposure in the 2nd/3rd
pitch, and a soaking wet start added to the sense of adventure. Remy led the
first pitch quickly and had set up before I was tied in, leaving me to
desperately try and get him to give me some rope to tie in, whilst he was
taking in ever more slack. I led the 3rd pitch which involves a bum
shuffle and an awkward lean round a corner which feels exposed, and this leads
up to ‘the saddle’. This is where the magic happens. I slowly set up the belay
in an awkward position, with the wind blowing an absolute hooley and constantly
threatening to take me off. With space
only for one to straddle, I was quickly beginning to feel somewhat saddle sore.
Eventually I began belaying Remy up, who promptly arrived and despite me
informing him there was only room for one, also mounted the saddle creating an
intensely cosy belay. He then proceeded to point out his disappointment at my
two point belay; sorry Remy. After an easy 4th pitch, Remy slung the
trees(!) and belayed me up. One thing that can’t be said about Remy’s ropework
is that it is unsafe, as demonstrated by this photo:
After a brief lunch stop to check up on everyone, Remy and I
somewhat selfishly hopped on Fisher’s Folly (VS), with me leading the balancy
corner crack pitch, and Remy leading the wet, poorly protected traverse pitch.
Whilst Remy was setting up his belay I had a hard time staying on the belay
ledge whilst dismantling my belay as Remy, unaware of his own strength pulled
hard on the ropes, nearly tugging me off. During this time Josh fearlessly got
stuck in to a nemesis of a route, Kransic Crack (HVS), and did the hardest lead
of the weekend. I watched him top out, barely out of breath; will he lead E1 at
Pembroke? After this lead, Josh then made himself comfortable in order to let
Mohammed and Caitlin second his route (and others???). Remy and I wandered off
to exchange places with Ellie, Charlie and Katie who had been selflessly
belaying and setting up. Charlie got on Chamonix (HS) but lacked psyche,
particularly after having a little slip at the start of the route. Ellie and
Jim got on the E1 the Bludgeon (I think?), where they proceeded to have an
epic. I am told that Ellie was seen to be swinging round on a rope desperately
trying to grab the wall, and much lowering a climbing back up took place as
various gear was forgotten etc. Needless to say, both returned at 1700ish
informing us that the lakes was shit.
After picking up a tired Hary Holkham from the pub (who
couldn't even afford to buy a pint of the Bluebird beer Josh would shut up
about), we all tucked into monstrous dinners and then proceeded to get
inebriated to various levels with the knowledge that we were going walking the
next day. Whilst I tried to resist falling asleep we played ring of fire for
the first time in a long time, which partly involved the likes of Thiviyan
being club gremlin under the table whilst people fed him drinks. Connor, being
somewhat sloshed by this point, ended up parading around the hut in the nude as
a result of picking the last king. Once clothed again, we started playing
Spoof, which I cannot be bothered to detail here, although I will say that on
Jim’s request, it involved the loser getting naked and paddling in the nearest
body of water. Details of the game can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoof_%28game%29.
Connor, with a certain lack of cognition ended up back in his birthday suit. I
myself did not want to participate in such tomfoolery, did not watch. However,
I am told that Connor, more than likely seeing double, fell face (and penis)
first into the icy water. Marie was another noticeable drunkard. We all slowly
drifted off to our beds, accept Caitlin and Toby, who for some unknown reason,
and against my pleas, set to work cleaning up a kitchen which was only going to
get dirty again the next morning.
That morning I had to begin the difficult task of waking
everyone up. The ones who were particularly stubborn were Marie and Caitlin,
the latter of whom responded to my polite requests that we hurry up and go
walking, threw a large sleeping bag a powerful netball style chest pass. Connor
on the other hand didn't take much encouragement to wake up, as he
unsurprisingly ran to the toilet in order to “chunder everywhere”, something he
had to do repeatedly that morning. We were up and out at a good time, and after
packing the bus we set off with the aim
of doing the Old Man of Coniston. Despite my argument that there would more
than likely be a bridge further up the river, we decided to make a somewhat
sketchy river crossing; thankfully no one else on the trip got wet. After a
good slog we finally made it up onto the ridge where it was again blowing a
gale, and began traversing the ridge line towards the Old Man. During a
discussion with Harry and Remy about the dangers, even of the small cornices on
the ridgeline, we ironically then proceeded to witness Jim and Ellie jumping up
and down on the fragile pile of snow like two children who had never seen snow
before. The 17 of us made good time with Ellie map reading, too good almost, as
we began to work out our decent off the ridge we began taking a bearing, and it
quickly became apparent that Harry’s decision to let Ellie map read, and her
decision to ignore Jim, meant that we had somehow missed out the Old Man.
Despite this, the day ended with the sun coming out and a gentle stroll down a
farm road. Whilst working our way back towards the hut we ended up witnessing
some hound trailing (dog racing), as 20 barking dogs charged down one side of
the hill towards us, and then thankfully bombed past us back up the hill the
other side. On arrival at the hut, many people took a shit and changed out of
wet shoes before we hit the road.
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| Sketchy river crossing |
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| Jim in a hole |
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| Add caption |
On the journey home the bus found out about one noticeable,
but poorly advertised ascent by Caitlin, who had soloed a route on Brown Slab the
previous day out of frustration of not getting enough climbing in. It
transpired that it was the guilt of both doing, and enjoying this experience
that had led her to clean the kitchen the night before. The bus then fell
asleep as the always mature Harry took photos of people sleeping with phallic
shaped objects (bananas/ carrots) in, and around their mouths. After a good KFC
stop we got home surprisingly early, having finished our 11 mile walk in good
time. A good meet as usual!!
Pembroke Camping
I have a certain feeling of melancholy as I sit here reminiscing over the last trad climbing trip of my captaincy, but what a trip it was! With peoples psyche only intensified by the promise of glorious weather, not one person was late for the bus and we were on the road quicker than we have all year! With Jim, Ellie and James rushing off in the swank van, we trundled along the motorway in the shockingly slow UAE, but at least we had some good music for once. Unfortunately for most it was Jack and I who were in charge of the music and as such Bullet for My Valentine and Metallica were on the menu. As usual the journey was largely uneventful, but as a plus side of the vans sluggish pace, the swank van had already begun putting the tents up for our arrival. Upon losing her patience at around 01:00, Ellie popped her head out of the tent and instructed us all to go to bed!
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| Start of the day at Saddle Head |
That morning we were up at the crack of dawn to enjoy a leisurely breakfast before the short journey to Saddle Head. Despite some grumbling the morning provided some entertainment. One such entertainment was James McDonald one off lapse in culinary wizardry, as he attempted to cook sausage and bacon without any oil. Another was Jane running off in excitement to look at the sheep. Upon arrival at Saddle Head, which was already basking in the morning sun, one group went to scramble into the crag, whilst a few of us set up an abseil line, whilst Jack and Jim ran off to do Bakers Door (E1), and Keelhaul (E2) and Mysteries (E3). The morning started excellently with Josh getting on Sea Mist (HS), and Ellie getting on Pink’ Un (VS), whilst I lead Flake-Quake (S) again which was greasy although surprisingly enjoyable climbing. Katie cruised up Wet stone (HS). Once I had topped out of Pink’ Un I could see Joel and Ellie rushing to get on to Landvetter (‘VS’), which Joel latter described as the scariest thing he has ever done. This leads me on to some very noticeable ascents from Aiden and Anthony who got on their first leads. Anthony led the aptly named Buff (VD) and topped out feeling well psyched, and Jane also led this seconded by Josh. Whereas Aiden led Fel Gwyr (D) which I had planned to second, however something demanded my attention which leads me on to a noticeable descent of the weekend. With the multi-pitch Blue Sky (VS) having been on the tick list for many, James and Emily psyched themselves up for it. After deciding the abseil rope they were planning to use was too short, I helped them swap the lines over. James eventually abseiled down the line and after a good while, during which I was beginning to feel somewhat worried, called for Emily to follow him down. I then went down to get Aiden on to his route after faffing for ages at the top, and also got called upon by Callum to take photos of him doing the “wad start” of No Hands (VS); at least he had his top back on at this point. However I heard a shout from James, and upon heeding to the call, it quickly became apparent that him and Emily were in a spot of bother, and were having a little epic. Thankfully James, Charlie and Josh were on hand to drop down a toppy for the pair. Upon resurfacing the somewhat shell shocked pair informed us that they had dropped the abseil line in the wrong place. Continuing the trend of tackling nemesis climbs which begun last weekend with Josh getting on Kransic Crack, Katie led Sea Mist after getting scared on the exposed initial traverse when seconding the previous year. Charlie and Joel both led Haze, the VS corner to the left of Sea Mist. The day of climbing was finished off with a confident and ballsy second lead from Anthony on Sea Mist, which I led just before, and Ellie attempting the E1 Breaking Wind, but decided to bail on to the HVS.
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| Sea Mist |
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| Sea Mist |
After climbing we quickly nipped back to the campsite to
grab wallets and such, before cramming into the St. Govan’s inn to form a
lengthy queue to order food. Once ordered, I realised that we had forgot the
guidebooks, meaning that we would have to make conversation without any helpful
guidebook related prompts and as such I heroically ran back to get them. Once
at the campsite two mysterious figures crept upon me, blinding me with their
head torches. However they made it clear that they were just two climbers in
need of some chalk charity. After dinner and few pints we were soon tucked up
and asleep in bed, super psyched to be going to St. Govan’s on the Sunday, as
opposed to Brown Slabs which haunts certain people from the previous year.
After being woken up at 07:00 for the second time to the
racket of sheep and seagulls after a cold night in a tent, peoples psyche has
begun to wane. Of those that were slow to get up, Anthony and Callum took most
of the (deserved) abuse as their tent was dismantled so that the flaccid outer
soaked them despite their threats to inflict pain on the culprits. Jane again
ran towards the sheep. James’ breakfast was slightly more successful than the
previous day and packing up the rest of the tents was not as painful as
anticipated. Quickly we were back on route to the crag; this time turning left
out of the car park towards St. Govan’s. After slinging two stakes the ab line
was quickly set up and I and James were among the first at the bottom to hop on
Stacked Against (VS), which Joel also
led later on. I did the route on Ellie’s recommendation, however half way up
the route Ellie informed me that I wasn’t on Stacked Against and that I wasn’t even on a route. Stupidly this
made me doubt myself briefly, although James McDonald confirmed that I was
correct. The climb was a good warm up, although it was cold in the morning
shade, and one had to search for the
bomber gear in-between the wobbly placements. Josh led Sandbagged (VS) in parallel to my climb. Once I had topped out,
Callum was also topping out Bomb Bay
(VS), which he had climbed without any large gear as he was advised to do and
Ellie was cruising Chieftain (VS).
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| Scary step over the descent gully. Hard for the short |
Once I had brought James up and abseiled back down Joel was cracking on with Ghandi (VS), which looked dirty and horrible, and James Thyng was not having the best time on Centurion (S). In spite of this Centurion saw some strong leads from Aiden, Anthony, Jane, but also Charlie who seemed fairly content taking it easy for the day. Upon recommendation from Ellie again (this time a good one), I had been psyched all week to do Army Dreamers (HVS), and indeed the line looked cracking in the sun. Whilst Ellie was cranking it in on Tactician (HVS), which both Josh and Callum later also sent, I spooled out the ropes and got on Army. Lacking in any form of stamina, I got really pumped in the upper half of the route, and thankfully I didn’t take a fall onto the blue nut I placed at an off angle. Charlie sympathised with my high pump factor when she topped out on second. As Charlie and I were coiling ropes, James Thyng was topping out of Exit Corner (VD) at which point he shouted down “Don’t worry Hailey, it’s not as hard as I made it look”; much to my amusement. After Josh had done Tactician and was completely boxed we all sat down for a leisurely lunch/ mince, and watched Callum cruise up Army Dreamers. In the morning Jack and Jim did The Arrow (E1) and Deranged (E2) respectively.
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Hard dogging
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Once food was eaten Ellie, with her seemingly relentless
energy, got on War Games (E1) and
Katie stomped up Exit Corner in her
boots. Whereas I abseiled back down to give Chieftain
a crack for some more 5a climbing. Despite being on a high from climbing
earlier, I was physically and mentally tired and as such was lacking in
commitment for the crux, although I did this reasonably painlessly after giving
myself a brief talking to. Whilst I was sitting under the crux I heard a bit of
a wail as Jim took a massive lob off Space
Cadet (E3) much to Hailey’s horror; although much funnier was watching Jack’s
dogged second of the route. When I completed the crux I watched as Joel led Bomb Bay, and whilst he looked calm and
collective, he was on the verge of deck out zone and as such I was somewhat
worried. Much funnier was watching Charlie straddle the block in the middle.
The days climbing was finished off with an outstanding lead
from Jane up Centurion, however when
Harry slipped off the route it became very clear that she had the rope over her
leg as she let out a cry of pain as Harry’s entire weight was transferred to
her body. Callum also finished a weekend of cranking it in by topping out Tactician, which Anthony unfortunately
couldn't second (nemesis route), so Josh had to second the route he had already
led however the nut he placed at the start of the day still couldn't be moved.
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| St. Govan's Chapel |
After packing up the van we headed over to St. Govan’s
Chapel for a group photo. Due to popular demand there was a lengthy poo stop as
everyone ran to get into the queue for
the public toilets in Bosherston, and naturally it was Callum we were left
waiting on. Once in the van we kicked Joel out and left him running after us
until the campsite. We’re going to miss you Joel. I wish I could convey how
good the weekend was in this blog, but unfortunately I’m a poor story teller.
Walking back up the stair from the chapel me and Jim shared a sentimental
moment as we commented on how quickly this year has gone.
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| Bye Joel |
