ULMC Pembroke Trip 14-16 Oct 2011

First meet of the year, first camping meet of the year, only limestone trad meet, and it's a good one. I went down with Lidiya and Wicks early, but not as early as it could have been: I blew it. But it could be worse; we still left before the minibus. We were in Gloucester for a stop before the minibus had left Fosse Park if I remember correctly. Travelling is boring so I’ll skip to the campsite where many jokes were had with Bellamy and Wil while waiting for the vans. When the vans eventually arrived with our bags and freshers everything was unloaded pitched and filled pretty quickly. It turns out that the two tents I brought weren't needed at all but ah well. I now know what it is like to sleep in a 'cosy' 2 man tent and in all honesty it could be a lot worse :).
The first day was Saddle Head. The abseil was to be set up by myself and Wicks before anyone arrived. We were late leaving but we were at the crag by half 7, probably at least half an hour before everyone was up. After setting up the abseil we went to stennis head for a route or two before everyone arrived. The plan was to do a HVS traverse but the tide was too high for us to find the start so we bailed and went on a VS a bit further up the cliff. Nice route with a bit of a fine traverse at the top, the 4c move was definitely moving from the slabby top section into the groove at the end, bit exposed and steep but brilliant. After the top-out we saw the group going towards the crag. Wicks managed to persuade me to belay him up an E2 next to the route we had just done before we left so we went back down and started the E2. Really nice route up a steep face, before pulling the small roof at the top on good jugs. I did fall about halfway moving off the rest holds, but I argue I was not used to the style and pumped :D. The roof was surprisingly easy, but looked intimidating, hence the cluster of gear placed beforehand :P. When we moved to Saddle Head I was at the back of the queue for the abseil so my group had to wait a fair while to do a route. More annoyingly, when I got to the base after everyone else there was a group on Sea Mist; the route I was planning to do. When it was free I headed up, realised just over halfway I was placing a lot of gear so ran out the next quarter of the route to save gear and try and return to the trad way of mind. Topped out without much trouble and hung around for a while before returning to the base. Brad led a Severe so I waited for the rest of my group to try it and then seconded to inspect the gear. At the top it was decided that the route could be a top rope so I helped Brad set up a top rope that he could use. Nearer the end of the day I attempted Pink Un but bailed after it looked wet, laybacky and that it would get dark shortly so there was no time for faffing. It turns out the route I escaped up through may have been a HS/VS but I’m not sure. The pub was the order of the evening before a nice nights sleep through rain and wind.
The second day was Becks Point. I had planned to do both Cow Pat and Pull Trough, but the first route was a Diff crack to teach my group how to belay. We split the now 5 strong group into a pair and a 3. I had 2 freshers due to experience and brad had the most experienced fresher, seemed fair to me. After the crack we all abbed down to try some harder stuff. Brad had tried the start of Pull Through and bailed so while he was trying Cow Pat I hopped on it. As I was pulling the crux for my first try I realised I had said I was ok with freshers belaying me up easy stuff as I wouldn't fall off, and that I was on a hard route with a fresher belayer, well given the gear was bad it could be worse. When I finally pulled the crux the gear popped just as I was getting established. Somehow I was less scared than I should have been. The top crack was fine and before long I was bringing my pair up. The blowhole abseil had been set up by this time so my pair left to try it at this point. Still wanting to try Cow Pat I stole Howett as a belayer and marched up it. Then I decided to give the blowhole a go. This ended up involving me manning the abseil for 3 people and belaying someone up. James decided to climb up the overhanging face which he did admirably. He offered to let me do it, so when I had my shoes on courtesy of Lidiya I abseiled down to a good ledge and started to climb up. The starting section was massively juggy and solid but higher up...... still juggy but loose. A block at least the size of my upper body came off at one point which majorly freaked me out. When I was at the top it was kind of decided to never climb it again, which makes perfect sense. We basically left after that which brings me to the journey back.
I was in the gear van with Howett. We stopped for a takeaway on the way back and the guy behind the counter called me a doctor who person for my hair which was interesting. We nearly witnessed a crash on the motorway as well. A car undertook us going very fast, (80 at least) and turned into our lane. He sped on and must not have noticed the car in front because he suddenly swerved to avoid it and nearly span out. Was a scary thing to watch. Another thing was coming onto the M1 we saw 3 police cars with blue lights going at least 100 down the inside lane, two were undercover too so it must have been interesting at least.
That’s pretty much all I can think of so until next time :)