Monday, 4 March 2013

Roaches 8–10th February 2013



The Roaches started looking interesting when Harry became unable to drive due to an accident. Lacking a driver we went searching, to no avail. We planned a test for a member in anticipation of Yorkshire, but with the time restraints we had we couldn’t get a driver through the test in time for the Roaches. Thanks must now go to Amy Hare, Amy Mason, David, Jack and Yasmin for volunteering their cars for the trip. Mason picked up the gear and Jim while the rest of us congregated at the Charles Wilson ready to pile into the cars. Jack and Yas followed their own route, using their own navigation methods while David and Amy went together after ending up on the same route. The motorways were interesting due to large tailbacks, but the traffic stopped as soon as we left the motorway and got on the A roads. We met in Leek and travelled convoy style to the Hut.

We got a nice surprise when we walked in. Mason wasn’t the only old boy present :D. Lidiya, Talbot and Wiil were also there. I had a nice walk around the lower tier due to congestion at the door. When I returned people were still unpacking and settling in so I decided to look at the upper tier. Amy came with me so I gave her a run-down of some of the famous routes and showed her the great slab, and the primary tick for me for the weekend; The Sloth. We returned to a happy drinking group of people. I spent the next hour or so talking to the old boys about recent happenings before I joined the main group. Ironically after being ‘anti-social’ for the start of the trip, shortly after I joined the main group I left with half of them to do some light soloing around Commander Energy. Boots made this slightly interesting but a few of us managed to grovel up a HVD chimney. Much fun and jokes were had and were back inside with no one hurt fairly quickly. With it being Alister’s birthday there was a fair amount of alcohol flying around and some dirty pints were concocted. Alister had one, as did Lally who got caught up in the mess when Mason got confused as to the name people sang (Ali – Lally). Lally however was much more messed up after a significant amount of gin, but he was looked after well and slept pretty soundly. The night overall was a little more interesting than a standard meet, but would not have been out of place on a Christmas trip.

Saturday
The day dawned well, but with a fair covering of snow and a biting snowy wind that did not look like it was going anywhere. We pottered around trying to come up with plans and eventually settled on a walk around a nearby reservoir. Bullock, who had arrived in the morning, offered an indoor trip to Stockport which had a rather low subscription, and using his old-boy wiles, managed to persuade me to join him.
The main group had a strange walk, which was changed halfway through when they encountered a wall where the path should have been. After a few hours though, they were back at the hut, and trying some top roped routes in the snow. They all seemed to have fun :D

The Stockport trip went well … 23 meter walls are long. Paired with frosty I tried various routes and managed to flash a route he fell off, which was at least a grade harder than marked and then almost lead a 6c on the massively tall lead wall. We climbed till 6ish before returning to the hut and the fun and games. After everyone sorted their food we got out the boulder mats and started trying the kitchen boulder problem. Thanks to Bullock we eventually started in the correct alcove and were making some progress, despite the damp rock and a muddy pocket. The crowd diminished over time as we kept falling. After a while it was just a few of us still trying. Various techniques were used but to no avail. While some people had got to the pocket, it was just too wet and muddy to hold. We sacked off the attempts and went back to the living room. People were already hitting the sack though so the night ended pretty quickly with most people in bed before 1am … madness.

Sunday
Sunday unfortunately was no better than Saturday, even worse in fact… It was actually snowing when we woke up. With no good prospects we again thought up alternatives. Most people opted for an indoor wall on the way home but a few people went to a pub to watch the rugby match that was on in the afternoon. The hut was emptied annoyingly slowly but we were out the door and on our way ‘home’ before 11 which is fairly good in my opinion.
With our wall decided to be Redpoint we made our way to Birmingham. Most people did a mix of bouldering, top roping and leading, but for some reason I just bouldered, mostly in the large overhanging cave. I had a good training session, and hopefully helped several members learn some new techniques. The trip ended as the wall was shutting, with roly-polys down the inclined mats. Scarily good fun J. We went home again without much incident. There may have been a wrong turning around the M6 but we shall brush that under the covers :P

Despite the weather being more suited to alpine/Scottish climbing, we still managed to have a good trip and got some climbing done. J Until next time.

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